17-May-2012 – DAY 3
After an early breakfast we proceeded to our first stopover – Hazratbal Durga, an ancient mosque with a rich history. It is going through a facelift as some modernization efforts have been undertaken. Women were not allowed inside. An army personnel stationed outside was gently telling the male visitors to cover their heads with a scarf before proceeding to the Durgah. The silence inside was palpable. A wizened old local man appeared from nowhere and told us about the importance of the place. Ancient emperors, the past and the present chief ministers of the state and former Prime ministers of India including Pandit Nehru have visited the Durgah, He pointed to a glass dome high up in a small balcony in the hall and added that a hair of Prophet Mohammed is housed in it and is displayed once a month for the public.
Our next stop was Sonamarg, around 83 KMs from Srinagar. Sonmarg is situated in the Sindh valley at a height of 8950 feet. The snow clad mountains over the horizon that we got used to by now was like the clouds in the sky. Something that you could see but not touch! Things were going to be different today. As the bus raced towards Sonamarg, the group burst in to songs. We had some accomplished singers amongst our midst who doled out some choice Bollywood songs of yester years. We stopped at a small hamlet for mid-morning tea. Surrounded by tall hills, with a stream flowing very close to the restaurant cottage, dotted by Chinar and pine trees the place was very scenic. A low mist hung around the area giving it a romantic feel. There was a nip in the air and we had to rush for our warm clothes. It was a perfect welcome to the place where we were heading to.
We finally arrived at Sonamarg. There was a small marketplace to cater to the tourists. Our cooks were ahead of us and ready with a steamy lunch. We had to now shift on to Tata Sumos for the onward journey. We were heading towards Thwajiwas glaciers and had to negotiate mountainous terrain. Before heading out all of us “rented” warm overcoats and boots from Sonamarg.
The Pir Panjal range is ….hypnotizing. The blue sky, the white snow decked mountains, the melting snow starting as a little brook pushes downwards clearing the rocks in its path and forming a larger stream rushing faster and faster trying to keep it’s appointment with the ocean and creating a musical gurgling sound in its wake …the little pebbles, the smaller and bigger rocks, the tall trees interlaced with green grass carpets … all seemingly part of a grandeur heavenly design. Our vehicle has stopped and I had stepped outside trying to assimilate with all my senses nature’s gift to mankind.
We had to trek uphill over rocks to reach the tip of the glacier. The reward – play on fresh snow and come sliding down over a sled … tempting …. My wife and older daughter took the longer route on horseback. I decided to climb along with my 8 year old daughter. Even the trek of 2-3 kms is tiring. Our breathing becomes laborious. Fortunately, I hired the locals who put my daughter on a sled and dragged the sled up the glacier. I met the locals at the agreed point. Meantime, some of my friends also joined us. I probably spent more time balancing myself on the steep glacier than enjoying the snow! Going downhill on the glacier was exhilarating!
By the time we reached our bus we were thoroughly exhausted. Someone in the group got lost in the wilderness. He probably will have a tale to tell to his grandchildren! All the energy and enthusiasm has waned by now and we just snoozed all the way back to the houseboat. We reached the houseboat around 10 in the night. No time or energy to explore. Have to wait till tomorrow …..zzzzzz
Travel Memories 